The Five Most Popular Traditional Chinese Female Outfits

Chinese women’s clothing—specifically Hanfu—is one of the oldest and most iconic traditional attires in Asia. With a history that spans thousands of years, its styles have evolved, yet still maintain their cultural significance. So, which styles are currently popular? Here, we’ll explore some of the most beloved Hanfu designs and provide a bit of background on each one.

Ruqun (襦裙)
The Ruqun is one of the oldest and most basic forms of Hanfu, dating back to ancient times and remaining a key piece in Chinese women’s attire. The design has changed slightly in terms of width and length from the Warring States period to the Ming dynasty, but its general structure has stayed quite similar.

The outfit consists of an upper garment and a skirt, which is called the “ru” for the top and “qun” for the skirt. This classic “top and skirt” style is emblematic of Hanfu. The Ruqun gained popularity during the Warring States period and was particularly embraced during the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties.

Ruqun comes in different variations based on the height of the waistline and the collar style. There are high-waisted, waist-level, and chest-level designs, as well as cross-collar or straight-collar versions. Among all, the Seven Kingdoms Ruqun is the most popular choice among enthusiasts, known for its elegant and classic look.

Aoqun (袄裙)
The Aoqun refers to a traditional Chinese outfit consisting of a thick upper garment (called “ao”) paired with a skirt (“qun”). This style dates back to the Tang dynasty and was prevalent all the way through the Republic period. In the context of Hanfu, the Aoqun generally refers to the Ming-style Aoqun, which had a variety of collar styles, including straight, round, stand-up, and square collars.

A common combination with the Aoqun is the Ma Mian Qun (马面裙), or horse-face skirt, which is an iconic pleated skirt style from ancient China. The Ma Mian Qun originated during the Liao and Song dynasties and features four pleats at the front, with decorative outer pleats and simple inner ones. The waist is often made of white cloth and secured with strings or buttons.

The Ma Mian Qun became widely popular during the Ming and Qing dynasties, with its design evolving from simple and delicate in the Ming dynasty to more luxurious and ornate during the Qing period. It continued to be a beloved style even in the Republic era. Pairing a Ma Mian Qun with a long-sleeved Daxiushan (大袖披风) or flowing cape became a fashionable look, especially in the Ming dynasty, where the long, flowing sleeves of the cape were a popular choice for both indoor and outdoor wear.

Beizi (褙子) + Moxiong (抹胸) + Songku (宋裤)
The Beizi is a traditional Hanfu garment that originated during the Sui dynasty, and in the Song dynasty, it was characterized by a straight collar and side slits. The Beizi was often worn with a Moxiong, which covered the chest and abdomen area and was fastened with buttons or ties. This combination became a staple in women’s wardrobe during the Song dynasty, with the Beizi being a versatile piece that could be worn in all seasons.

Another key element of the Song dynasty attire is the Songku, a type of pants that was known for its distinctive slit on the outside, a feature unique to this period. The Songku was typically worn as a decorative garment, adding an extra touch of elegance to the outfit.

Round Collar Robe (圆领长袍)
The Round Collar Robe has its origins in the Shang dynasty and is considered one of the oldest and most traditional forms of women’s clothing in China. After being refined in the Sui and Tang dynasties, the style spread throughout the country and became widely popular. Both men and women wore the Round Collar Robe, but the women’s version often featured vibrant colors and intricate patterns, while men’s versions were typically plain and solid-colored.

By the Song dynasty, the round collar robe became an important official garment for government officials, and this practice continued in the Ming dynasty. It’s known for its convenience and comfort, making it a favored choice for many people even today. This robe symbolizes social status, as different designs were used to distinguish officials’ ranks.