Chinese Traditional Clothing: Lanshan (Lan Shirt)

The Lanshan robe, a cornerstone of Chinese traditional clothing, is a single-piece long robe with a distinctive horizontal strip at the hem, known as the “lan.” Worn by scholars and officials, this iconic garment reflects centuries of cultural heritage. Explore its history further at China Culture.

The Lanshan is made of fine white cloth, with a round collar and wide sleeves. A horizontal strip is added at the hem as a skirt, with pleats at the waist, worn by scholars, imperial students, and local academy students.
— Song History, Treatise on Carriages and Clothing

I.Lanshan Robe in the Tang Dynasty

In Chinese ancient clothing history, there’s a long robe cut as a single piece with a horizontal strip (lan) at the hem, called the Lanshan. This strip, typically at knee level, is a seam thought to honor the traditional “upper garment, lower skirt” style.

The Lanshan began in the Northern Dynasties and flourished in the Tang Dynasty.
The Old Tang Book, Treatise on Carriages and Clothing notes: “Duke Yuwen Hu first ordered a strip added to robes.”
The Ancient and Modern Chinese Notes records: “In the Zhenguan era, Chancellor Zhangsun Wuji suggested adding a strip to robes, mimicking edging, and the emperor approved.”

In the Tang Dynasty, the Lanshan was mainly worn by scholars and officials.
The New Tang Book, Treatise on Carriages and Clothing states: “Minister Ma Zhou proposed: ‘The Classics mention no tunics. The Three Dynasties had the Shenyi. Let’s add a strip, sleeves, cuffs, and hem as the scholars’ primary attire.’”
By the Song Dynasty, the Lanshan became a daily outfit for literati, continuing to evolve. Even in late Qing opera costumes, traces of the Lanshan lingered.

II. Song Dynasty Lanshan

In the Song Dynasty, the Lanshan saw widespread use across various settings. According to the Song History, Treatise on Carriages and Clothing, “The Lanshan is made of fine white cloth, with a round collar and wide sleeves. A horizontal strip is added at the hem as a skirt, with pleats at the waist, worn by scholars, imperial students, and local academy students.” In both Northern and Southern Song, it was a fashionable men’s everyday outfit. The Lanshan was a sleeveless long shirt, with a round or cross-collar and a horizontal strip at the hem, symbolizing the ancient “upper garment, lower skirt” tradition.

Its versatility made it suitable for officials at home, retirees returning to their hometowns, or low-ranking clerks. Typically made of fine white cloth and belted at the waist, some versions skipped the horizontal strip, called Zhishen or Zhizhuan, worn at home for comfort and ease.

III. Ming Dynasty Lanshan

By the Ming Dynasty, the Lanshan’s style evolved rapidly.
Ming Lanshan featured wide hems and sleeves with sealed cuffs, leaving only a hand opening. Slits appeared on both sides, along with a flared hem. The hem’s style varied: early Ming Lanshan had inward pleats, mid-Ming versions had flat hems, and late Ming ones had pointed hems.

A no-strip Lanshan, often made of blue cloth and called “Lanshan” in rural areas, replaced the knee-level strip with a wide hem. Traditional stripped Lanshan still existed alongside these variations.

IV. Jinshi Ceremonial Attire

The Jinshi ceremonial attire was a unique style. In the Ming Dynasty, after passing the imperial exam, scholars received a Jinshi robe and headcloth from the Imperial Academy, worn on the day of rank announcement, during gratitude ceremonies, and for paying respects to Confucius in the Shicai ritual. Afterward, they switched back to regular clothing, returning the robe to the academy.

This attire wasn’t called Lanshan but “Lanluopao” (blue silk robe). While retaining basic Lanshan features, it used finer materials: blue silk for the main body, green silk for edging, with a round collar and large sleeve openings, reflecting its prestige.

V. Conclusion

The Lanshan emerged in the Northern Dynasties and thrived in the Tang Dynasty.
From the Song Dynasty, it became a staple for scholars and literati. In the Ming Dynasty, its wearers were stratified, with the highest form being the Jinshi ceremonial attire.
Renamed Lanluopao in Jinshi attire, it used luxurious materials, showcasing elegance and status.

Conclusion: Legacy of the Lanshan Robe

From its Northern Dynasties origins to its prominence in the Tang and Song Dynasties, the Lanshan robe remains a timeless piece of Chinese traditional clothing. In the Ming Dynasty, it diversified, with the prestigious Jinshi attire (Lanluopao) showcasing its cultural significance. Its elegant design continues to inspire modern Hanfu enthusiasts.