These Are Common Hanfu Styles
Hanfu styles, a vibrant expression of Chinese culture, showcase timeless elegance through designs like Qixiong Ruqun, Aoqun, Pifeng, and Daopao. This guide explores these iconic outfits, blending history and modern appeal. For more on Hanfu’s cultural significance, visit The Hanfu guide.
Qixiong Ruqun: Iconic Chest-High Hanfu Style(Chest-High Jacket and Skirt)
The Qixiong Ruqun is a variation of the Ruqun, typically defined as a two-piece outfit with a short jacket (ru) and a long skirt tied high at the chest. Its hallmark is the skirt’s placement above the chest, with straps tied either at the center or on both sides of the chest. Popular from the Sui and Tang Dynasties to the Five Dynasties, today’s versions often mimic mid-to-late Tang styles. The jacket’s collar can be open-front, cross-collar, or even U-neck (tanling).
Dui Jin Ruqun: Versatile Open-Front Hanfu Style(Open-Front Jacket and Skirt)
The Dui Jin Ruqun, a form of waist-high Ruqun, consists of an open-front, straight-collared jacket and a skirt. A strapless top (moxiong) can be worn underneath, with the jacket tucked into the skirt. Paired with a shawl (pibo), it’s a cozy, everyday Hanfu style.
Aoqun: Timeless Coat and Skirt Hanfu Style(Coat and Skirt)
The Aoqun features a lined coat (ao), as opposed to a single-layer tunic (shan), earning it the alternate name Shanqun (tunic and skirt). The coat is worn over the skirt, a style that first appeared in the Wei-Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, becoming the most common women’s outfit in the Ming Dynasty. The coat often has pipa (lute-shaped) or straight sleeves, while the skirt is typically a Ma Mian skirt or a standard pleated skirt.
Long Ao: Elegant Long Coat Hanfu Styles(Long Coat)
Also called Da Ao (great coat), the Long Ao is a lined outer garment with slits on both sides. Common collar styles include round or cross-collar, always with a right-over-left closure (you ren). Inside, it pairs with cross-collar or stand-collar coats or padded jackets, and the skirt is often a Ma Mian skirt. Pipa sleeves, wide sleeves, or broad straight sleeves are the most popular.Discover more at Traditional Chinese Clothing.
Daopao: Scholarly Hanfu Styles for Men(Scholar’s Robe)
Not exclusive to Taoist priests, the Daopao was originally a casual home garment for Ming Dynasty male scholars. It features a cross-collar, right-over-left design, side slits with hidden flaps, and is tied with sashes. A white or plain protective collar is often added, and the sleeves are typically wide pipa sleeves. A silk cord (sitiao) can be tied at the waist for style.
Pi-feng: Graceful Cloak Hanfu Style(Cloak)
Also known as the Ming-style Beizi, the Pi-feng is a type of outer cloak, not a cape. It has an open-front, straight collar that typically reaches the chest, fastened with sashes or buttons. Knee-length with side slits, it often has wide sleeves, sometimes sealed at the bottom except for a hand opening. According to the Ming Dynasty’s Sancai Tuhui, “The Beizi is today’s Pi-feng.” It pairs well with Aoqun or Long Ao.
Beizi: Classic Long Jacket Hanfu Style(Long Jacket)
The Beizi is one of Hanfu’s most common outer jackets. It features an open-front, straight collar running to the hem, with varying lengths and side slits, often edged. Song Dynasty Beizi typically have straight sleeves, sometimes with edged cuffs, paired with strapless tops and skirts or trousers (ku). Ming Dynasty Beizi, often called Pi-feng, favor wide sleeves and pair with cross-collar or stand-collar coats.
Changyi: Majestic Great Cloak Hanfu Styles(Great Cloak)
Also known as Hechang (crane cloak) or Dachang (great cloak), the Changyi is a men’s outer cloak recorded as early as the Jin Dynasty. Song Dynasty literati favored it, and Ming Dynasty scholars used it as a casual overcoat or for warmth in cold weather. Similar to the Pi-feng, it has an open-front, straight collar, wide sleeves, and is tied with long sashes, with or without side slits. Due to their resemblance, Changyi and Pi-feng are sometimes used interchangeably in Ming novels.
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