Hanfu Styles: Shenyi and Quju
Hanfu Shenyi, a timeless symbol of Chinese culture, encompasses iconic styles like the curved-hem robe and straight-hem robe. Known for their elegance, these Han Dynasty clothing pieces feature intricate designs such as the “extended hem with hooked edges.” This article explores the QuJu Hanfu and Chanyu styles, their historical evolution, and modern adaptations.
For a comprehensive guide to Hanfu’s evolution across dynasties, see our [Guide to Traditional Chinese Clothing]
Hanfu Shenyi: The Curved-Hem Robe (QuJu)
Straight-Hem (Chanyu)
The curved hem robe, or QuJu Hanfu, is a deep robe with a lengthened back hem forming a triangular flap. This flap wraps from back to front, secured with a wide belt to conceal the end. Ancient texts describe the “extended hem with hooked edges,” referring to its wrap-around style. For more on ancient Chinese textiles, visit The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Also called Chanyu (襜褕), this is a longer single-layer robe. The hem is square and straight, cut vertically at the bottom, sitting at the sides or back without attached ties. It’s secured with a cloth or leather belt. Before the Han dynasty, wrap-around curved-hem robes ruled, but as inner garments improved, they faded by the late Western Han. After the Eastern Han, straight-hem robes became the main deep robe style.
To explore how Shenyi styles evolved from Western Zhou to Ming dynasties, delve into this [super brief history of Hanfu].
In the Han dynasty, both men and women wore straight-hem robes, but they weren’t formal enough for ceremonies. Why? Ancient pants had no crotch, just a tie, so an outer robe was needed to cover them properly—otherwise, it rude. That’s where curved-hem deep robes came in.
Evolution: By the Eastern Han, straight-hem robes became formal attire, often seen in portrait stones, bricks, and murals as large-sleeved outer layers.
QuJu（Curved-Hem）
The curved-hem deep robe has a lengthened back hem forming a triangular flap. It wraps around the back to the front, tied at the waist with a wide belt to hide the flap’s end flap. Ancient texts mention “extended hem with hooked edges,” likely referring to this wrap-around look.
Originally, both men and women wore curved hem robes. Men’s hems were wider for easy movement, while women’s were tighter. Han women’s curved hem robes could trail on the ground, flaring out like a trumpet flower (check out Warring States and Han murals or figurines). They walked without showing their feet. Sleeves came in wide or narrow styles, with edged cuffs. The low cross-collar neckline showed off inner layers, sometimes revealing three or more collars for the iconic “three-layered look.”
Over time, men’s curved hem robes vanished, but women’s lasted through the Eastern Han into the Wei and Jin dynasties. Eventually, Ru skirts took over as deep robes declined.
Note: “Extended hem” varies—some wrap once, others layer multiple times. Hems can be straight tubular or fish-tail (tight then flared).
Modern QuJu（Curved-Hem Robes）
Modern Hanfu curved-hem robes spark debates, with many fans treating them as formal wear. They belong to the deep robe family, featuring curved hems, three-layered sleeves, and wide belts. Sleeve styles include broad sleeves or drooping Hu sleeves.
Heads-up: Robes with an “入-shaped hem” (small curved hems) are controversial and often labeled as photo studio costumes, not true Hanfu, due to lack of archaeological evidence.
Double-Wrap Long Curved-Hem
Hem wraps twice, robe and skirt as one, trailing to the ground.
Double-Wrap Broad-Sleeve Long Curved-Hem
Hem wraps twice, with wide sleeves.
Single-Wrap Curved-Hem
Hem wraps once, creating two layers.
Drooping Hu Sleeves
Sleeves mimic the sagging folds under a buffalo’s throat (called “Hu”), a distinctive Han-era style.
Things to Watch For
Use a belt, not a waist sash—sashes are for kimonos.
The robe’s edging should differ from the main fabric.
Wear curved-hem robes solo, no outer layers, but a cloak is okay.
“Three-layered look” means multiple clothing layers, not three pieces—pair with inner robes.
“入-shaped hems” lack unearthed evidence, so they’re considered studio costumes, not Hanfu.
Hanfu uses cross-right collars (right lap over left). Left-over-right was for the deceased or other cultures.
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