What’s the Difference Between Hairpins, Hair Clasps, and Swaying Ornaments?

From Hanfu hair accessories like hairpins to hair clasps and swaying ornaments, explore a journey from simple to intricate in traditional Chinese hair styling. Learn the unique charm of these accessories that blend function and beauty.

What Are Hanfu Hair Accessories?

Hanfu hair accessories, including hair-pins, hair clasps, and swaying ornaments (Bu-yao), are essential to traditional Chinese fashion. Each has distinct features, rooted in history, and carries cultural significance. This guide explains their differences and uses, drawing from historical sources like the this.

Hairpins, Hair Clasps, and Swaying Ornaments: What’s the Difference?

Hairpin (Fazan)

Any stick-shaped hair accessory without tassels can be called a hairpin. Hair-pins evolved from the ancient ji (hairpin).

Ancient Chinese women loved styling their hair into buns, using a long needle-like hairpin to secure the bun or crown, preventing it from falling loose. This led to the habit of using hair-pins.

The Cihai dictionary explains: “A hairpin, used in ancient times to secure buns or crowns, later became a women’s hair accessory.”

In ancient times, hair-pins often carried romantic meaning, with women gifting them to men as tokens of love.

Hair Clasp (Fachai)

A Fachai is a hair accessory formed by crossing two hair-pins, used to hold hair in place or to pin hats to hair.

It was also a romantic symbol. A woman might split her clasp in two, giving one half to her beloved and keeping the other, to be reunited later.

The key difference between a hairpin and a clasp is that a hairpin is a single stick, while a clasp is typically two sticks crossed together.

Swaying Ornament (Buyao)

The Bu-yao evolved from hair-pins and clasps.

It features dangling ornaments or tassels on the clasp’s head, creating a shimmering effect.

The Bu-yao concept began in the Han Dynasty, initially used with noblewomen’s ceremonial attire.

Its design often included phoenix or butterfly shapes or tassels, swaying gracefully with the wearer’s steps—hence the name Bu-yao (step-sway). The Shiming (Explanation of Names) notes: “A Bu-yao has hanging beads that sway with each step.”

Hairpins, Clasps, and Swaying Ornaments: Clearing Up the Confusion

Some think hair-pins, clasps, and swaying ornaments are the same, just called different names across dynasties. But they’re distinct, each with unique features.

Let’s start with the hairpin.
So… what exactly is a hairpin?
Originally called ji, also known as fazan or crown hairpin, it’s used to secure hair or headwear while adding decoration.

In ancient China, both men and women used hair-pins to fix their hair crowns. Some even tucked pens into their hair for note-taking, called “pinning the pen” (zanbi).

Japanese women’s traditional hairstyles often use hair-pins as decoration.
Korean women, when wearing hanbok, pin hair-pins into their buns or false buns for adornment.

Hair-pins are typically thin at the tip for easy insertion into buns, with a rounded knob at the end for stability. Flat hair-pins, often made of silver or copper, are thicker at the ends and thinner in the middle.

The main difference between a hairpin and a clasp is that a hairpin is a single stick, while a clasp is two crossed sticks, used to secure hair or hats. Clasps became popular around the late Western Han Dynasty.

The Bu-yao gets its name from its swaying motion, often described as “three sways per step.”

A traditional Han Chinese accessory, the Bu-yao originated in the Western Han’s Western Regions, later refined and innovated. Initially a ceremonial accessory for nobles, symbolizing status, it spread to commoners after the Han Dynasty.

Bu-yao often feature wing-like plates or dangling tassels, swaying gracefully with a woman’s steps, evoking elegance and poise.

The difference between hairpins and Bu-yao lies in their purpose.
Bu-yao prioritize decoration, while hairpins focus on practicality.

Bu-yao emerged as noble ceremonial accessories, while hairpins were everyday hair-securing tools for commoners.

In summary:
Hairpins are single-stick, clasps are double-stick, both leaning toward function.
Bu-yao have longer, dangling ornaments, emphasizing decoration.