Hanfu Styles: The Earliest Form—“Yishang” (Top and Skirt)

Hanfu, the essence of Chinese traditional clothing, carries profound cultural significance and a rich history of Hanfu that spans centuries. From its origins in the Yishang style to its evolution through dynasties, Hanfu reflects philosophical ideals and aesthetic principles that continue to inspire today. This article explores the history of Hanfu, its cultural significance, and its enduring impact on Chinese identity.

The earliest form of Hanfu, known as Yishang, emerged as a foundational style in Chinese traditional clothing. Consisting of a top and skirt, Yishang is referenced in the Book of Changes (Zhouyi, Xi Ci II): “Huangdi, Yao, and Shun let garments hang down, and the world was governed, inspired by Qian and Kun.” These ancient leaders used Hanfu to symbolize order and harmony, as noted in the Chinese Text Project.

What made it special? The Eastern Han scholar Xun Shuang explains in Jiu Jia Yi: “The top mirrors Qian (heaven), covering from above; the skirt mirrors Kun (earth), embracing from below.” In Chinese culture, heaven and earth carry profound meaning. Yishang embodied philosophical ideals and principles.
With its top-and-skirt structure, it’s upright, dignified, and elegant—a cornerstone of traditional Chinese aesthetics.

The Rise of Deep Robes

During the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, a new style emerged: the deep robe. This was essentially the top and skirt sewn together into a single garment, like a modern dress. But here’s the catch—they still cut the top and skirt separately before stitching them together. Why the extra effort? To honor the Yishang tradition, staying true to ancestral roots.

The deep robe wasn’t just a practical merge—it carried deeper meaning. The Confucian classic Book of Rites dedicates a chapter to it, saying: “The ancient deep robe had a system, aligning with compass, square, plumb line, scale, and balance. Not too short to expose skin, not too long to drag in the dirt…”
How does a single garment reflect such principles?

• Round sleeve cuffs (like a compass) symbolize proper behavior.

• Square collar (like a square) represents upright character.

• Straight back seam (like a plumb line) signifies integrity.

• Balanced hem (like a scale) stands for fairness.

With these qualities, the deep robe was revered by sages and kings. You could wear it to study, practice martial arts, or serve as an envoy—it was the ultimate outfit, second only to court or sacrificial robes.

Thanks to its rich symbolism, Chinese Yishang could indeed “govern the state.” All later one-piece garments—robes, skirts, and more—are just variations of this foundational style, never straying far from its roots.

Evolution and Challenges

Over history, clothing styles evolved. In the Warring States period, King Zhao Wuling of Zhao pushed for “Hu clothing for riding and archery” to defeat the Xiongnu. Despite the noble goal, courtiers called it “barbaric attire” and resisted. Hu clothing (tight sleeves, pants) never became mainstream.

Deep robes came in two types: straight-hem (vertical hem at the sides) and curved-hem (triangular hem wrapped around the back and tied with a sash). Straight-hem robes resembled inner robes, and by the Eastern Han, they merged, becoming versatile for inner or outer wear.

In the Sui and Tang dynasties, emperors who loved nomadic Hu culture blended Hu round collars with Han cross-collar long robes, creating the round-collar robe, which even became an official uniform. What happened to tradition? Don’t worry—the Yishang spirit lived on. A horizontal seam (henglan) at the knee level symbolized the skirt, keeping the top-and-skirt legacy alive, whether high or low, visible or subtle, in every Hanfu evolution.

Round-collar robes didn’t dominate completely. In the Song dynasty, men’s everyday wear included the Zhíduo robe, a descendant of monks’ Zhongdan (middle single-layer robe), as noted in Shen Congwen’s Chinese Ancient Costume Research. Its hallmark? The classic Hanfu cross-collar right-lap style. By the Ming dynasty, the similar Taoist robe was a scholar’s casual go-to.

The top-and-skirt concept was stubborn and enduring. But in the Qing dynasty, it faced its biggest challenge: the “shave hair, change clothes” edict to suppress Ming loyalty. Luckily, the Qing offered a leniency policy: “Ten Follows, Ten Don’ts,” including “scholars follow, Taoists don’t.” Many Han Chinese who refused to comply became Taoist priests, preserving the Taoist robe. Though it vanished among scholars, it lived on among monks and priests. Even today, we see its traces, with the top-and-skirt legacy enduring forever.