Winter Warmth: The Cloak

To combat winter’s chill, we turn to modern outerwear like down jackets, but how did ancient Chinese stay warm? Let’s explore the Hanfu cloak, a star of Ming dynasty fashion and a timeless piece of traditional Chinese outerwear. This winter Hanfu style blends elegance and practicality, making it a must-have for enthusiasts of ancient Chinese clothing.

Cloaks exemplified Hanfu’s adaptability—contextualize them in our [overview of traditional styles].

History and Design

As an outer layer, the cloak came in two main styles. One is described in Zhu’s Shunshui Tanqi: “The cloak has a front-opening collar without edging… with buttons at the chest, shaped like jade flowers, or small ties work too.” This style was a straight-collar, front-tie cloak, perfect for both men and women. Its chest closed with delicate jade flower buttons or soft fabric ties, giving it a simple yet elegant vibe. Picture a sleek, flowy layer that’s both practical and pretty!

The other style, a front-opening upright-collar cloak, gained traction by the late Ming. This one had a pair of tiny buttons at the collar and ties or jade flower buttons down the front, adding a touch of sophistication. It was like the Ming version of a tailored trench—structured but still breezy.

By the Qing dynasty, Han women kept rocking both styles, with tweaks over time. The body and sleeve lengths shifted, and decorative details evolved with fashion trends—think embroidered edges or fancier buttons. These cloaks weren’t just functional; they were a canvas for style that carried forward centuries of flair.

Wearing and Occasions

In the Ming dynasty, cloaks were everyday staples. They were versatile enough for formal events like banquets or just chilling at home. Whether you were heading to a fancy gathering or strolling through a snowy garden, a cloak had you covered—literally and stylishly.

Take a scene from The Plum in the Golden Vase (Chapter 78), where a lively banquet at Ximen Qing’s house is buzzing. Suddenly, a servant announces, “Lady Wang and Madam He are leaving!” Ximen sneaks to the doorway to catch a glimpse of them climbing into their sedan. The ladies are sent off under the moonlight, with fireworks lighting up the courtyard. Lady Lan swaps her party look for a bold red gold-flecked mink jacket, while Lady Lin rocks a white silk jacket paired with a mink cloak, accessorized with gold bracelets and jade pendants. These cloaks scream elegance, wrapping them in warmth and status as they glide away.

Another glimpse comes from Zen True Anecdotes (Chapter 33), where Zhang Shanxiang borrows clothes to stay warm. A maid hands him a floral-lined silk cloak and says, “This silk cloak is my lady’s favorite. She just took it off today, and I snagged it quietly. You can use it to keep warm, but if she wants it back, I’ll need to grab it!” This shows how cloaks were cherished pieces, casually lent but still special enough to be missed.

For women, cloaks were often layered over upright-collar long shirts, adding a flowy, regal touch. Men paired them with Taoist robes, creating a scholarly, refined look. Whether draped over a vibrant skirt or a muted robe, the cloak was the perfect finishing layer, like a winter hug that screamed sophistication.

While cloaks provided warmth, Ming sleeves showcased parallel artistry—observe [Ming sleeve craftsmanship].

Styling the Hanfu Cloak for Winter Hanfu Style

Women layered the Hanfu cloak over upright-collar long shirts for a regal winter Hanfu style, while men paired it with Taoist robes for a scholarly look. Whether over vibrant skirts or muted robes, the cloak was a sophisticated finishing touch in traditional Chinese outerwear, offering warmth and flair.