Hanfu Styles: Ming Dynasty Flying Fish Robe

If you’ve caught the epic Ming dynasty film Embroidered Spring Blade, you’ve seen the Jinyiwei (imperial guards) stealing the show with their flying fish robes and embroidered spring blades. Every guard, from top brass to foot soldiers, struts in these iconic outfits, delivering a visual knockout that has us all swooning. But let’s peel back the cinematic glamour—real-life Jinyiwei fashion was steeped in tradition, prestige, and some serious style rules.

The History of the Flying Fish Robe in the Ming Dynasty

The flying fish robe is a variation of the Yesa (Yisan), a proud piece of Han Chinese clothing adorned with a flying fish pattern. Worn by the Ming dynasty’s elite Jinyiwei, these robes were crafted from the finest cloud brocade—think patterned silk (luo), patterned gauze (sha), or patterned satin (juan)—and paired with the sleek embroidered spring blade. Ranking just below the ultra-prestigious python robe, the flying fish robe was a royal gift, a badge of honor reserved for those favored by the emperor.

Unlike the standard official uniforms of the Ming court, the flying-fish-robe wasn’t part of the regular dress code. It was a special imperial gift, screaming high status and imperial favor. These robes were made from top-tier materials like silk, gauze, or satin, often in a bold, eye-catching red (though you’d also see them in regal purple, cool blue, or vibrant green). The craftsmanship was next-level, with intricate patterned weaving or gold-thread embroidery showcasing a dragon head and claws on the chest, the dragon body curving dramatically over the shoulders, and the tail flowing down the back. It was a statement piece that said, “I’m kind of a big deal.”

Now, about that “flying fish”—it’s not the floppy sea creature you’re picturing. It’s a mythical four-clawed dragon with a fish-like tail, sometimes sporting wings, blending dragon fierceness with a fantastical, almost otherworldly vibe. This creature was a symbol of power, bridging the earthly and the divine, perfect for the emperor’s elite guards.

The flying fish design was super versatile, with no strict playbook. It could rock wings or go wingless, appear as a chest patch for a subtle flex, or wrap around as a full-shoulder design for maximum impact. You’d find it on all sorts of garments: the stately round-collar robe for formal occasions, the sleek straight robe for a clean look, the spiritual Taoist robe, the bold Tieli robe, or the iconic Yesa itself. The flying fish could adapt to any style, making it a standout in Ming fashion.

But the flying-fish-robe wasn’t the only star in the Ming’s gift wardrobe. The imperial gift system ranked patterns by prestige: python was the ultimate flex, followed by flying fish, then bull, and finally qilin (unicorn). This gave us the legendary python robe, flying-fish-robe, bull robe, and qilin robe. These weren’t locked into one shape—they could show up as embroidered patches on a majestic round-collar robe or as bold designs on a swashbuckling Tieli robe. The styles varied wildly, from structured to free-flowing, giving each wearer a chance to shine.

Why It Matters Today

The flying-fish-robe isn’t just a relic of the past—it’s a symbol of the Ming dynasty’s bold creativity and the Jinyiwei’s swagger. For modern Hanfu lovers, slipping into a flying-fish-robe (or a replica) is like channeling that imperial vibe. Pair it with a flowing sash or a jade pendant for extra flair, and you’re ready to turn heads at a Hanfu event or photoshoot. The rich reds, intricate gold threads, and mythical dragon-fish make it a showstopper, whether you’re aiming for historical accuracy or just want to feel like a Ming dynasty VIP.For a deeper dive, explore China’s National Museum for historical artifacts.

Styling Tips

• For Men: Rock a flying-fish-robe with a black cloth belt and traditional boots to keep the Jinyiwei edge. Add a scholar’s cap for a refined touch.

• For Women: While historically Jinyiwei were men, modern Hanfu fans can adapt the flying fish pattern on a Beizi or Ao skirt for a bold, unisex-inspired look. Pair with delicate hairpins to balance the robe’s intensity.

• Occasions: Perfect for Hanfu festivals, cosplay events, or themed photoshoots. Avoid casual settings to keep its regal vibe intact.

The flying-fish-robe is more than just clothing—it’s a piece of Ming history, a nod to imperial power, and a reminder of the Han people’s knack for turning art into fashion. So, next time you see one in a drama or at a Hanfu gathering, you’ll know the story behind its mythical charm!

Why the Flying Fish Robe Matters for Hanfu Lovers

Today, the flying-fish-robe is a beloved choice for Hanfu enthusiasts. Its rich reds, intricate gold threads, and mythical dragon-fish design make it perfect for festivals, cosplay, or photoshoots. Pair it with a jade pendant or flowing sash to channel the Jinyiwei’s imperial vibe. The robe’s legacy lives on as a symbol of the Ming dynasty’s bold artistry.