Common Hanfu Styles: A Journey Through 2,000 Years of Chinese Tradition
Hanfu, China’s iconic traditional attire, has evolved over millennia, reflecting dynastic aesthetics and cultural values. If you’re exploring common Hanfu styles, this guide unveils seven iconic designs—from the Zhou Dynasty’s ceremonial robes to the Tang Dynasty’s ethereal skirts—and their enduring legacy in modern fashion.
Hanfu’s Origins and Hanfu history and evolution
Hanfu traces its roots to the era of Emperor Huang (黄帝), the legendary progenitor of Chinese civilization. By the Zhou Dynasty (1046–256 BCE), it was formalized through Confucian principles in the Four Books and Five Classics. The Han Dynasty (202 BCE–220 CE) solidified Hanfu as a cultural cornerstone, emphasizing harmony between traditional Chinese attire and ethics.
Key Takeaway: Hanfu isn’t just clothing—it’s a symbol of li (礼, ritual) and yi (义, righteousness), deeply tied to China’s philosophical heritage.
7 Common Hanfu Styles to Know
Quju (曲裾) – Curved Hem Style
The Quju style was popular during the Western Han Dynasty. It’s a type of robe with a distinctive curved hem and is sometimes referred to as the “wrap-around collar robe” (绕襟袍). The Quju robe belongs to the “Shenyi” category of Hanfu, meaning it’s a form of deep-collared, elegant traditional Chinese attire with a flowing design.
Popular during the Western Han Dynasty (206 BCE–9 CE), the Quju features a distinctive curved hem and wrap-around collar. Belonging to the Shenyi category, it was worn for ceremonies and court events.
- Design: Flowing silhouette with layered collars.
- Modern Revival: Seen in historical dramas like The Empress of China.
- Explore Hanfu history and evolution at The Met.
Historical prototype
Beizi (褙子) – The Traditional Jacket
A Song Dynasty (960–1279 CE) staple, the Beizi is a straight-collar jacket with wide underarm openings. Women wore it as semi-formal outerwear, often paired with skirts.
- Versatility: Adaptable for daily wear or layered with modern outfits.
- Cultural Blend: Influenced later garments like the Korean hanbok.
The Beizi became popular as a formal or semi-formal outer garment, particularly for women. Its design often extends past the knees and comes in various common Hanfu styles. Some Beizi have narrow sleeves with decorative trim, while others feature an elegant collar that reaches down to the hem. Over time, the Beizi evolved into a common type of ceremonial dress worn by women.
Historical prototype
Aoqun (袄裙) – Coat and Skirt Set
Prominent from the Tang to Ming Dynasties, Aoqun combines a fitted jacket and long skirt. Its A-line cut and pleated details make it ideal for formal occasions.
- Aesthetic: Balances structure (jacket) and fluidity (skirt).
- Pro Tip: Pair with embroidered sashes for a regal touch.
Historical prototype
Ruqun (襦裙) – The Classic Tunic and Skirt Combo
The most iconic Hanfu style, Ruqun features a short tunic (Ru) and long skirt (Qun). Variations include:
- Cross-collar Ruqun: Overlapping diagonal neckline (Song Dynasty).
- Qixiong Ruqun: High-waisted skirt tied under the bust (Tang Dynasty).
- Tanling Ruqun: U-neck with half-sleeves (Wei and Jin Dynasties).
Why It Endures: Adaptable for all body types and occasions.
Historical prototype
Cross-collar Ruqun (交领襦裙)
A unique variation of Ruqun is the cross-collar Ruqun, which gained popularity during the Song Dynasty. This style is characterized by its overlapping diagonal collar instead of a flat neckline. The top is usually worn loosely, creating a soft and flowing appearance.
Historical prototype
High-Waisted Ruqun(齐胸襦裙)-高腰裙款
The Qixiong Ruqun, or high-waisted skirt, was another variation that emerged during the Northern and Southern Dynasties. This style features a skirt that is tied just under the arms, with the waistline resting below the chest. The skirt then wraps around the body, creating a graceful and flowing look. This particular style was favored by noblewomen during the Tang Dynasty and is frequently seen in ancient paintings and unearthed artifacts.
The distinctive feature of this style is the high waist, which aims to highlight the wearer’s posture and elegance. The skirt is often long and flowing, typically covering the legs, creating a smooth, continuous line from the chest down.
Historical prototype
Tanling (坦领) Half-sleeve Ruqun
The Tanling style, also known as the U-neck style, is a shorter version of the Ruqun. This style first appeared during the Wei and Jin Dynasties and became more common in the Tang Dynasty. The Tanling half-sleeve Ruqun has a distinctive U-shaped neckline and typically features shorter sleeves, which offer more freedom and movement. The half-sleeve version gained popularity in the Tang Dynasty, partly due to the influence of nomadic cultures in the north.
Historical prototype
Why Hanfu Styles Matter Today
From TikTok trends to global fashion runways, common Hanfu styles are resurging as symbols of cultural pride. Designers like Hanfu Street blend historical accuracy with modern fabrics, making these common Hanfu stylesaccessible worldwide.
3 Tips for Wearing Hanfu:
- Context Matters: Reserve elaborate Tang styles for photoshoots; opt for Song or Ming designs for daily wear.
- Fabric Choice: Linen for summer, silk for ceremonies.
- Accessorize: Hairpins, jade pendants, and embroidered shoes complete the look.
Conclusion
Hanfu’s common styles—whether the Quju’s ceremonial grace or the Ruqun’s timeless elegance—tell a story of China’s artistic and philosophical evolution. By embracing these designs, we honor a legacy that has shaped East Asian fashion for over 2,000 years.
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