How Were Shoes in Ancient China?
From simple wraps to intricate designs, ancient Chinese footwear tells a rich story of style and status. Known as “ju,” “lu,” or “xie,” Hanfu shoes evolved from basic protection to symbols of identity in Chinese shoe history. Let’s explore how traditional Chinese shoes shaped culture, from Shang dynasty boots to Ming dynasty shoes.
Evolution of Ancient Chinese Footwear Across Dynasties
In Chinese shoe history, footwear transformed with each era. The Book of Songs .
Footwear, or the clothing worn on feet, has a rich history in ancient China. From simple wraps to intricate designs, Chinese footwear evolved from bare basics to fancy styles, shifting from pure function to symbols of status and identity. Through shoes and socks, you can trace the fusion and progress of Chinese civilization.
In ancient times, shoes were broadly called “ju” (shoes), “lu” (footwear), or simply “xie” (shoes). “Ju” was the earliest general term for shoes. In the Book of Songs (Wei Feng · Ge Ju), it says: “Tangled葛 shoes, fit to tread frost.” Here, “lu” means to step, while “ju” refers to all kinds of shoes. Scholar Xu Shen in Shuowen Jiezi explains: “Ju is lu.” Later, Qing scholar Duan Yucui noted: “Jin’s Cai Mo said, ‘What we now call lu was called ju before the Han dynasty.’”
Evolution of Footwear
Shang and Zhou Dynasties
By the Shang and Zhou periods, footwear was already pretty diverse. There were even “shoe officials” dedicated to managing the emperor’s shoes! Shoes were crafted with fancy designs, materials, and colors, following strict dress codes. Paired with robes and headgear, they formed China’s early clothing system. Think leather, silk, or dyed patterns—royal shoes were no joke!
Footwear completed Hanfu’s ceremonial identity—dive deeper into traditions via our [full clothing guide].
Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods
Weaving tech got a boost, leading to woven silk shoes adored by nobles, often decked out with jade decorations. Northern nomadic influences, plus King Zhao Wuling’s push for horseback archery, made long boots super popular. Wooden clogs were also common—perfect for muddy paths or casual strolls.
Han Dynasty
Han shoes were named by material: leather shoes, silk shoes, hemp shoes, or grass shoes. They were big, stiff, and bulky, needing laces to stay on while walking. To avoid chafing, people wore thick cloth socks or long socks tied with ribbons to keep them from slipping. Fun fact: women rocked round-toe shoes, while men went for square-toe ones.
Wei, Jin, Southern, and Northern Dynasties
Shoe-making got fancier with more styles, especially in toe designs. Women’s shoes included phoenix-head shoes, standing phoenix shoes, or flying-head shoes, while men had cloud-gathered shoes, split-toe shoes, or old-man-head shoes. Men also loved silk shoes and wooden clogs, which were versatile—great for casual wear, muddy fields, rainy days, or even military marches.
Tang Dynasty
Tang shoes were a style explosion: high-toe shoes, flat-toe shoes, cloud-shaped small-toe shoes, and floral shoes. Made from brocade, hemp, silk, or satin, they were sometimes woven from pu grass into grass shoes so fine they rivaled silk. Women loved these durable, waterproof grass shoes, perfect for labor. Socks evolved too, with soft gauze socks replacing plain cloth. Nobles started wearing nomadic-style felt shoes or black leather six-panel boots.
Like shoes, fans were functional art—compare Tang [floral shoes and brocade fans]
Song Dynasty
Early Song footwear followed Tang rules, with boots for court ceremonies, later switching to shoes. Common folks wore grass shoes or cloth shoes, named by material. Shoe culture grew, and specialty shoe shops popped up. Note: foot-binding began in the Northern Song among elite women, but it was slender and straight, not the tiny, arched “three-inch lotus” of later eras. That extreme style developed in the Qing.
Ming Dynasty
Officials saw cloud-toe shoes and boots as proper, while scholars flaunted double-beam shoes for respectability. Commoners and nobles wore similar styles, but materials marked status. Black soap boots were for court, made of leather, satin, or felt with soft soles and thin linings, similar to the emperor’s but with less gold thread. Felt boots were practical, with double layers—inner felt for warmth, outer pockets for name cards or cash. Women’s phoenix-head shoes with upturned toes and embroidered edges were a hit, while laboring women wore flat-toe, round-toe, or pu grass shoes. Some women’s shoes had 7cm high soles for extra flair.
In the Ming, Ming dynasty shoes like cloud-toe boots and double-beam Hanfu shoes marked status. Black soap boots for court used leather or satin, while women’s phoenix-head shoes with high soles and embroidery were iconic in ancient Chinese footwear.
High-soled phoenix-head Hanfu shoes with upturned toes defined women’s Ming dynasty shoes, blending flair and function in Chinese shoe history.
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