What Is the Name of the Ethereal Garment Zhao Jinmai Wears in Du Hua Nian?

Unveiling the Gui Yi: A Beautiful Reflection of Historical Clothing Styles

In the drama Du Hua Nian, the character Li Rong, played by Zhao Jinmai, wears a stunning garment that seems to float and make her look almost otherworldly. So, what is the name of this enchanting outfit?

It’s called a “Gui Yi” (袿衣), a type of traditional Chinese clothing that’s both elegant and mystical. The earliest known mention of the Gui Yi appears in the Shen Nv Fu (神女赋) by Song Yu, where it’s described as “振绣衣，被袿裳,” which translates to something like “shaking the embroidered robe, and wearing the Gui Yi.” This garment is so beautiful and ethereal that it’s often thought to be the closest thing in traditional dress to what a divine being would wear.

But what exactly is a “Gui”? The description of Gui Yi suggests that it features a decoration called “Gui,” which forms a kind of inverted triangle. The fabric widens at the shoulders and narrows down towards the hem, giving it that beautiful and graceful drape. The garment’s defining feature is that it incorporates this “Gui” decoration, which was likely used to add elegance and grandeur to the outfit, reflecting the meaning of Gui Yi in Chinese culture.

However, the term “Gui Yi” remains somewhat ambiguous, and we can only guess at its exact form based on historical clothing styles and artifacts, like figurines and paintings. Some suggest that it was worn by royal consorts or officials during ceremonial occasions, while others point out its frequent appearances in depictions of deities and elegant women in ancient Chinese garments.

A key term associated with the Gui Yi is “Chui Fen” (垂髾), which appears in the Zi Xu Fu (子虚赋) by the Han Dynasty poet Sima Xiangru. This term is interpreted by scholars like Sima Biao (243-306 CE) as referring to “fluttering ribbons” or “Gui decorations,” while “Fen” refers to the “swallowtail” shape. The famous Tang Dynasty scholar Li Shan even suggested that both “Chui Fen” and “Gui” were essential components of the Gui Yi, so any garment featuring these elements could be classified as a “Gui Yi.”

Now, let’s break down the possible forms that this traditional Chinese clothing might have taken. There are four main variations, which we can identify from historical evidence (though feel free to join the discussion if you have other thoughts). These are:

1, The Robe Style (Pao Shi 袍式): This style was more common in pre-Qin times. The garment’s hem would extend into a longer Gui or swallowtail shape, as seen in ancient tomb paintings, especially from the Western Han Dynasty. It’s thought that this extended hem was the earliest form of the Gui Yi, which might have been worn in rituals or formal occasions.

2, The Long Robe Style (Chang Yi 长衣): This variant is a modification of the swallowtail look. It’s seen in the Terracotta Army from the Warring States period, where long robes with swallowtail hems appear. However, these robes weren’t ceremonial; they were more everyday wear.

3, The Skirt and Tunic Style (Qun Ru 弯裙式): This is a two-piece design, where a top is paired with a skirt, and the skirt would have Gui-like decorations added to the hem. You can spot this look in famous ancient artworks like the Nü Shi Zhen Tu and Luo Shen Fu. Although we don’t have a clear picture of its exact structure, it looks like the Gui element was either sewn onto the skirt or layered inside the garment.

4, Accessories Style (Pei Xie 配饰式): In some cases, the Gui was simply used as an accessory, like a decorative piece that hung from the skirt or attached to other parts of the clothing, like the collar or shoulders. This is the style we see in the costume Zhao Jinmai wears in Du Hua Nian.

Interestingly, the Gui decoration wasn’t always limited to the hem or the skirt—it could also be seen hanging from the collar, shoulders, or back, adding to the garment’s mystical charm. The length of the Gui would vary, with some dragging on the floor and others just hanging delicately. These different styles and their evolution can be traced through more discoveries of ancient Chinese garments.

The beauty of the Gui Yi is that its design is timeless. Its long, flowing hem, with the elegant curves and swallowtail shapes, makes the wearer feel as though they’re gliding through the air, giving off an almost magical, ethereal vibe. It’s easy to see why this attire is considered one of the most graceful and otherworldly examples of traditional Chinese clothing.

So, have you gained a clearer understanding of this ethereal, centuries-old piece of clothing that has managed to captivate audiences for so long?

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