Hanfu Jewelry Extravaganza: Ji, Zan, Chai, Bu Yao, Dian, Bian Fang, and More!

Hanfu Jewelry Highlights

Jewelry is always a girl’s best friend, and Hanfu jewelry—Ji, Zan, Chai, Bu Yao, Dian, Bian Fang—are jaw-dropping, masterfully crafted, and totally irresistible! Let’s dive into these stunning Hanfu hair accessories and ornaments today.

Ji (Hair Pin)

Ji is one of the earliest Hanfu hair accessories, originally used to secure hair or fasten crowns. It is considered the ancestor of hairpins and hair ornaments like Zan and Chai. In ancient China, both men and women grew long hair, and the Ji played an essential role in styling and ritual. From the Zhou Dynasty, when a girl reached the age of fifteen, she was considered an adult and could be betrothed. This ceremony was called the “Ji rite.” If she remained unmarried by twenty, the ritual was still performed, where her hair was tied up and a Ji was inserted to mark her coming of age.

Zan (Hairpin)

The Zan developed from the Ji, still serving the purpose of securing hair but with added decorative value. Its front end was often carved with motifs of flowers, birds such as phoenixes and peacocks, or auspicious symbols like the ruyi. Made from gold, jade, ivory, or tortoiseshell, the craftsmanship of these Hanfu jewelry pieces became increasingly refined, featuring techniques such as engraving, openwork, and relief carving.

Chai (Hair Ornament)

The Chai is created by combining two Zan into a cross-shaped design, forming a decorative yet functional piece of Hanfu jewelry. Chai were used to secure hair or even fasten hats to the hair. They could be inserted horizontally, vertically, diagonally, or even from the bottom up. Depending on the hairstyle, women could wear just two or up to twelve, usually placed symmetrically at the temples, showcasing both practicality and elegance.

Bu Yao (Step Shaker)

The Buyao hairpin is one of the most famous types of Hanfu jewelry, named because its pendants “shake with each step.” Usually decorated with phoenixes, butterflies, or winged motifs, a buyao features dangling beads or tassels that sway gracefully as the wearer walks. While ornamental, it also helped secure the hairstyle. Its lively movement embodied feminine beauty and was beloved by noble women throughout history.

Dian (Floral Decor)

Dian [diàn] are delicate floral decorations made of gold, silver, jade, or shell, worn directly on styled hair. Unlike zan or chai, which primarily secured buns, dian were purely ornamental, symbolizing refinement and luxury among Hanfu accessories.

Bian Fang (Flat Hairpin)

Bian Fang was a special large hairpin used by Manchu women when styling the “qi tou” hairstyle during the Qing Dynasty. It functioned like the flat hairpins used by Han women but was much larger, acting as a “beam” to connect real and false hair buns. While decorative, it was primarily practical, preventing hairstyles from falling apart—an iconic piece of Hanfu hair accessories in late imperial fashion.

Shu Bi (Comb)

Known simply as “zhi” [zhì] in ancient times, the Shu Bi was one of the Eight Great Hair Ornaments of China. It was an essential Hanfu accessory, especially for women, and became so common that inserting combs into styled hair became a cultural trend. Fine Shu Bi were treasured court items, earning the reputation of “palace combs and famous bi.”

Hua Sheng (Floral Ornament)

Hua Sheng were floral-shaped ornaments worn by ancient women, often luxurious and ornate. As delicate Hanfu jewelry, they symbolized beauty, grace, and refinement, and were commonly paired with other hair accessories for festive or ceremonial occasions.

Mo E (Headband)

Mo E, also called forehead bands or hairbands, were popular during the Ming Dynasty. Women wrapped them around the forehead, often embroidered or adorned with beads and gems. As a versatile Hanfu accessory, it served both decorative and practical purposes, keeping hair in place while adding elegance.

Hua Dian (Face Decoration)

Hua Dian [diàn] were floral ornaments placed directly on the face, especially on the forehead or cheeks. Popular in the Tang Dynasty, they were crafted from gold and silver into shapes such as plum blossoms, birds, or fish. These exquisite adornments were a distinctive part of Hanfu jewelry, enhancing feminine charm and creativity.

Er Dang (Earrings)

Earrings, known as “Er” or “Dang” in ancient China, are among the oldest and most widespread forms of Hanfu jewelry. They have remained fashionable for thousands of years, worn by noblewomen and commoners alike, symbolizing elegance and continuity across generations.

Yu Jue (Jade Ring)

Yu Jue [jué] is one of China’s oldest jade ornaments, shaped like a ring with a missing section. In ancient times, it was used as both an earring and pendant. Beyond decoration, it symbolized decisiveness or the severing of ties. As a precious jade piece, it held a unique place in the history of Hanfu accessories.

Xiang Quan (Neck Decor)

Neck rings were among the earliest Hanfu accessories, widely used since prehistoric times. Numerous examples have been unearthed from the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, showing that these Hanfu jewelry pieces were already popular across different classes of society.

Ying Luo (Beaded Necklace)

Ying Luo [yīng luò] was an ornate necklace made of pearls or jade beads. Originally an adornment on ancient Indian Buddhist statues, it was introduced into China along with Buddhism. By the Tang Dynasty, fashionable women began adopting and refining it, turning it into a luxurious Hanfu jewelry style. Known for its large and elaborate design, Ying Luo stood out as one of the most glamorous Hanfu accessories of the time.

Xiong Shi (Chest Ornament)

Chest ornaments, often brooches, added vibrancy and balance to otherwise simple outfits. A single brooch could transform plain clothing into something elegant. As part of Hanfu accessories, these ornaments highlighted creativity in women’s fashion.

Yao Shi (Waist Accessories)

Waist accessories were highly symbolic in ancient China. Items such as jade pendants, belt hooks, and belt plaques, often crafted from precious metals and gemstones, hung at the waist. As essential Hanfu waist accessories, they reflected both status and etiquette, since the sound of jade pendants when walking was considered a sign of grace.

Jin Bu (Jade Pendants at the Waist)

Jin Bu was a special waist ornament consisting of multiple jade pendants strung together with colored threads. Worn at the waist, they jingled softly as the wearer walked, symbolizing refinement and moral conduct. They were a classic form of Hanfu waist accessories, highly valued by scholars and nobles.

Bi Chuan (Armlet)

Bi Chuan [chuàn] was an arm ornament, similar to an armlet or armband, often made of gold or silver in spiral forms. Women wrapped it around the upper arm, sometimes in multiple coils. It was both decorative and symbolic, representing loyalty and affection in Hanfu jewelry culture.

Shou Zhuo (Bracelet)

Bracelets were worn on the wrist, ranging from jade bangles to metal chain designs. As common pieces of Hanfu jewelry, they came in endless variations—gold, silver, jade, or gem-studded—signifying wealth and femininity.

Jie Zhi (Ring)

Rings, also called “zhi huan” or “finger rings,” appeared in China over 4,000 years ago. Initially used for practical or symbolic reasons, they gradually evolved into fashionable Hanfu jewelry pieces. By the Ming Dynasty, rings were widely worn as tokens of love, status, or style.

Zhi Jia Tao (Nail Guard)

Nail guards, or finger covers, existed early on, though often overlooked until the Qing Dynasty, when palace ladies popularized them with elaborate designs. The earliest example, a Han Dynasty gold spiral from Jilin Laojieshen, was adjustable and practical. These ornate guards became unique forms of Hanfu jewelry, showcasing both elegance and social status.

After reading this article, if you’d like to further explore the beauty of Hanfu, you may find these related articles helpful: Guide to Traditional Chinese Clothing, Traditional Chinese Clothing.