Han Ethnic Traditional Attire: Not Just for Women

Overview of Han Ethnic Traditional Attire

Hanfu, short for Han Ethnic Traditional Attire, also called Hanfu clothing, Han robes, or Huafu, spans from Emperor Huangdi’s reign to the mid-17th century (late Ming to early Qing). Rooted in “Huaxia-Han” culture across major Han regions, it centers on Huaxia ritual culture, evolving naturally into a unique Han style, distinct from other ethnic groups. It’s the essence of China as the “land of robes and crowns,” “nation of etiquette,” “embroidered Zhonghua,” and “Seris country,” showcasing not only top-notch dyeing, weaving, and embroidery skills but also over 30 Chinese intangible cultural heritage items and protected crafts that have been passed down for generations. Hanfu is more than clothing—it is a symbol of identity, tradition, and artistry.

When Hanfu clothing comes to mind, most people picture women’s styles—super soft, elegant, and vibrant—but men’s Hanfu is just as gorgeous and dashing, carrying a noble and scholarly aura. Men’s Hanfu typically requires sleeves that extend past the fingertips and a length that falls over the ankles, showing a bit of the shoes without dragging on the ground. The proportions are key: sleeves or hems that are too short break the graceful silhouette. The fit should be loose and comfortable, never tight or cramped, emphasizing dignity and ease. Cuts often feature a front-back center seam, usually with attached sleeves, ensuring balance and symmetry in the design.

In the Northern Dynasties, warrior Ku Zhe gear—a top paired with pants—was used as both a combat uniform and casual attire among the Han. This style was later upgraded to court security wear in the Jin Dynasty, and by the Northern-Southern Dynasties, it had become part of everyday noble attire. The Southern Dynasties expanded on this, bringing elaborate traditional Chinese robes for the aristocracy, reflecting both refinement and status.

During the Tang Dynasty, the famous Yuan Ling Robe rose in popularity. Although it originated as early as the Shang Dynasty and served as underwear in the Han period, it later transformed into formal outerwear under the Northern Wei’s Xianbei rulers. From the Sui-Tang period all the way to the late Ming, the Yuan Ling Robe remained fashionable across courts and society.

Ruqun, one of the most iconic Hanfu types, pairs a short top (Ru) with a tied skirt, forming the classic “upper coat, lower skirt” silhouette. The Ru is short, usually above the knee, while the skirt completes the bottom half. Together, Ruqun creates one of the most recognizable looks in Han ethnic attire. It emerged during the Warring States period and flourished in the Wei, Jin, and Northern-Southern Dynasties, becoming especially popular among noblewomen and commoners alike.

The Dao robe, a super popular Ming Dynasty Hanfu style, became a go-to garment worn by everyone from emperors to commoners. Its popularity was closely tied to the influence of Daoism as the state religion, which promoted simplicity, elegance, and balance.

The Zhu Zi Shen Yi, a variant of the Hanfu Shen Yi, was reserved for highly formal occasions such as sacrifices and important rituals, emphasizing its sacred role.

Similarly, the Zhao Shan Zhi Ju, part of Huaxia attire, had a distinct straight hem, with a shorter version called Qu Bei. Its square-cut front flaps stood in contrast to the more common curved hems. (Note: Zhi Ju and Shen Yi are often mistakenly lumped together, though they differ in form and function.)

The Zhi Duo, a garment that originated in the Song Dynasty, was recorded in Zhao Yanwei’s Yun Lu Man Chao as the “ancient undergarment, now monk walkers’ Zhi Duo,” highlighting its transition from everyday use to monastic wear.

The Da Chang evolved from the Wei-Jin’s “He Chang,” a side-unslit, front-buttoned overcoat, mostly worn by men. It became a favorite among scholars, who appreciated its dignified, scholarly appearance.

The Fei Yu Fu, a variant of the Yi Sa, featured embroidered flying fish motifs and became a highly symbolic Hanfu style. During the Ming Dynasty, members of the Jin Yi Wei, eunuchs, and officials such as Chao Ri, Xi Yue, Geng Pu, and Shi Sheng wore Fei Yu Fu. Made from luxurious Yun Jin decorated Luo, gauze, and silk, and paired with embroidered spring knives, it ranked just below the prestigious python robes.

The Bei Zi, also called Back Zi or Chuo Zi with Xiu Yao, featured a straight collar, front buttons, and side slits, tied with a sash and reaching about knee-length. Originally unisex, it later evolved into a popular women’s casual formal wear, prized for its simplicity and elegance.

The Duan Da, an ancient Hanfu for the poor, was also known as “Shu He” or “Qu He.” This simple, practical workwear was durable and easy to wear, reflecting the lives of the working class.

So stylish, elegant, and deeply symbolic, Han Ethnic Traditional Attire truly embodies both fashion and cultural identity. It deserves careful protection and revival, especially with regard to maintaining historical accuracy in films, television, and cultural exhibitions. Let’s keep this cultural treasure alive, appreciated, and well-documented for future generations.