Guide to Traditional Chinese Clothing – Hanfu
Hanfu (Hàn Fú 汉服, Hanfu), fully known as the “traditional clothing of the Han nationality”, is a traditional Chinese attire, also referred to as Hàn Yī Guān (汉衣冠, Han clothing), Hàn Zhuāng (汉装, Han garments), or Huá Fú (华服, Hua clothing). Its origins trace back to the era of the Yellow Emperor, continuing until the late Ming and early Qing dynasties (approximately the mid-17th century), primarily in the regions inhabited by the Han nationality, with the “Huaxia Han” culture as its background and guiding ideology.
Centered on Huaxia ritual culture, Hanfu has evolved over time, forming a unique style and cultural connotation, distinctly different from the traditional clothing systems of other ethnic groups.
This guide is divided into five sections: the basic characteristics of Hanfu, its forms and styles, applications in different scenarios, historical evolution, and related cultural content, aiming to help readers fully understand Hanfu.
Basic Characteristics of Hanfu
Basic Structure
Hanfu is typically crafted from fabric approximately 50 centimeters wide, comprising the following main components:
- Lǐng (领, Collar): The neckline, often a highlight of the design.
- Jīn (襟, Front Flap): The front panel, usually overlapping.
- Rèn (衽, Overlapping Section): The part where the flaps overlap, adding a layered effect.
- Jīn or Jìn (衿, Cuff): Decorative edging on sleeves or hems.
- Jū (裾, Hem): The lower edge of the garment, often flowing.
- Xiù (袖, Sleeves): Sleeves, varying in width and length, are a hallmark of Hanfu.
- Mèi (袂, Sleeve Extensions): Extended sleeve ends, enhancing elegance.
- Dài (带, Belt): A waistband used to cinch the garment.
- Fú (韨, Ornamental Cloth): Decorative fabric strips, often used in ceremonial contexts.
Core Features of Hanfu
The three primary characteristics of Hanfu include:
- Jiāo Lǐng Yòu Rèn (交领右衽, Crossed Collar with Right Overlap): The left front flap covers the right, forming a “y” shape when viewed from the front (appearing as right-over-left externally).
- Restrain the waist by ropes (无扣结缨): Secured with cords or fabric bands, avoiding buttons to maintain smooth lines.
- Loose clothes with long-wide sleeves (褒衣大袖): Loose sleeves and long robes, showcasing elegance and ease.
- Flat and Centered, Crossed to the Right (平中交右): Hanfu adopts a folded cutting method, with front and back panels forming a single piece, symmetrical along the midline when laid flat.
- Wide and Harmonious with Sashes (宽禄合缨): Generous use of fabric, loose sleeves for ease of movement, and skirt hems often twice the waist size, embodying the characteristic of “loose and wide silhouette.”
- These features can be summarized as: “Flat and upright, crossed collar with right overlap, wide robes in harmony, tied with sashes.”
Cutting Methods
Hanfu employs three main cutting methods:
- Yī Cháng Zhì (衣裳制, Yī Cháng System): The upper garment (Yī 衣) and lower skirt (Cháng 裳) are cut separately, representing the most ancient and orthodox form.
- Shēn Yī Zhì (深衣制, Deep Clothing System): The upper garment and lower skirt are sewn together, forming a continuous robe.
- Tōng Cái Zhì (通裁制, Straight-Cut System): No division between top and bottom, cut straight to create a unified appearance.
Forms and Styles of Hanfu
Hanfu garments are divided into seven categories, each serving a specific role in the layered ensemble.
Nèi Yī (内衣, Underwear)
The Nèi Yī (内衣, Underwear) is the foundation, worn close to the skin, emphasizing comfort and coverage, including:
- Mò Xiōng (抹胸, Chest Binder): For women, covering the chest and abdomen, essential for certain styles like cross-collar short skirts.
- Other Inner Garments: Lightweight undergarments for comfort.
- More about Hanfu underwear and a guide to Hanfu underwear.
Zhōng Yī (中衣, Middle Layer)
The Zhōng Yī (中衣, Middle Layer), akin to a modern undershirt, supports and complements the outer garments. Typically white but available in other colors, its collar is slightly higher than the outer layer. Essential for formal occasions, it also enhances the effect of daily wear. Includes:
- Zhǎi Xiù Zhōng Yī (窄袖中衣, Narrow-Sleeve Middle Garment): Flexible and practical for daily wear by both genders.
- Kuān Xiù Zhōng Yī (宽袖中衣, Wide-Sleeve Middle Garment): Paired with formal attire for added solemnity.
- Zhōng Kù Yǔ Zhōng Qún (中裤与中裙, Middle Pants and Skirts): Gender-neutral pants or skirts.
- Zhōng Dān (中单, Single-Layer Middle Garment): Lightweight middle layer.
Wài Yī (外衣, Outwear)
The Wài Yī (外衣, Outwear) is the core of Hanfu’s cultural significance, divided into long garments, upper garments, and lower garments:
Long Garments
Shēn Yī (深衣, Deep Clothing): A straight-cut robe reaching the ankles, with no side slits, symbolizing unity. Includes:
- Qǔ Jū (曲裾, Curved Hem): Curved hem, suitable for both genders.
- Zhí Jū (直裾, Straight Hem): Straight hem, versatile for various occasions.
- Zhū Zǐ Shēn Yī (朱子深衣, Zhū Zǐ Deep Clothing): Men’s ceremonial robe, often used for sacrifices.
- Lán Shān (襕衫, Scholar’s Robe): Worn by scholars, with hem reaching the knees and sealed edges, symbolizing unity of top and bottom.
More about Shēn Yī.
Straight-Cut Long Garments:
- Yuán Lǐng Páo (圆领袍, Round-Neck Robe): Circular collar, fastened at the right shoulder.
- Zhí Duō (直裰, Straight Robe): Side slits, no lower hem.
- Zhí Shēn (直身, Straight Body): Similar to Zhí Duō but with a lower hem.
- Dào Páo (道袍, Taoist Robe): Casual wear with tucked-in hem, not exclusive to Taoist priests.
Upper Garments
Rú (襦, Short Jacket): Short upper garment, not longer than the knees, paired with skirts or pants:
- Shān (衫, Shirt): Single-layered, suitable for light wear.
- Ǎo (袄, Padded Jacket): Multi-layered, warmer.
Cháng Rú (长襦, Long Short Jacket): Extends to the knees, including:
- Guī Yī (袿衣, Women’s Jacket): Women’s jacket, paired with skirts.
- Cháng Ǎo (长袄, Long Padded Jacket): Extended version of the padded jacket, commonly used by women.
Lower Garments
Cháng (裳, Skirt): Crotchless lower garment, suitable for both genders:
- Qún (裙, Skirt): Common for women, paired with short jackets.
- Wéi Cháng (帷裳, Overskirt): Short skirt worn over another skirt, not worn alone.
- Bì Xī (蔽膝, Knee Cover): Ceremonial accessory, originally covering the thighs.
Kù (袴, Pants): Gender-neutral trousers, facilitating movement.
Zhào Shān (罩衫, Overgarments)
Zhào Shān (罩衫, Overgarments) are the outermost layer, varying by gender:
- Bèi Zǐ (褙子, Open-Front Jacket): Women’s open-front, wide-sleeved jacket, sometimes called a cape.
- Bǐ Jiǎ (比甲, Sleeveless Vest): Sleeveless open-front vest, suitable for both genders, with side slits.
- Bàn Bì (半臂, Short-Sleeve Jacket): Short-sleeved jacket, with sleeves reaching the elbows.
- Dà Chǎng (大氅, Large Overcoat): Men’s wide, ornate open-front overcoat, limited to informal settings.
- Dǒu Peng (斗篷, Cape): Sleeveless cape for weather protection.
- Dān Yī (襌衣, Sheer Overgarment): Lightweight sheer overgarment, suitable for both genders.
- Dà Shān (大衫, Ceremonial Overcoat): Women’s ceremonial overcoat with wide sleeves, often paired with leather belts or phoenix crowns.
Shǒu Fú (首服, Headwear)
Shǒu Fú (首服, Headwear), also called “head clothing,” is a significant part of Chinese clothing culture, with many styles carrying cultural stories. They are divided by form and purpose into:
- Guān Miǎn (冠冕, Crowns): Formal headpieces for ceremonial occasions, paired with corresponding robes.
- Jīn Mào (巾帽, Caps and Headscarves): Including head towels (Jīn Zé 巾帻, Head Towels) and hats, such as the Dōng Pō Jīn (东坡巾, Dongpo Towel) or Hào Rán Jīn (浩然巾, Haoran Towel), rich with cultural significance.
Accessories
Accessories enhance Hanfu’s functionality and aesthetics:
Sleeve Accessories: Pàn Bó (襻腕, Arm Ties): Sleeve-binding cords for ease of movement.
- Yāo Dài (腰带, Belt): Made of silk or fabric, often knotted, adorned with jade pendants.
- Gé Dài (革带, Leather Belt): Made of leather for durability.
- Tāo Dài (绦带, Silk Sash): Elegant silk waistband.
- Dié Xiè (蹀躞, Functional Belt): Used for hanging items.
Shoulder Accessories:
- Pī Bó (披帛, Long Scarf): Women’s sheer scarf with patterns.
- Yún Jiān (云肩, Cloud Shoulder): Decorative shoulder piece.
Shǒu Shì (首饰, Jewelry)
- History of Hanfu Traditional Earrings
- History of Chinese Traditional Necklace
- Diji (䯼髻, dí jì);
- Tian-Tsui (点翠, diǎn cuì).
Others: Wéi Mào (帷帽, Veils), Shàn Zi (扇子, Fans), Xiāng Náng (香囊, Fragrant Sachets), and Zǐ Mǔ Kòu (子母扣, Mother-Child Buttons, Ming dynasty buttons).
Historical Evolution of Hanfu
Hanfu exhibits distinct styles across dynasties, reflecting the aesthetics of each era.
Han Dynasty
- Qǔ Jū (曲裾, Curved Hem): Top and bottom cut separately, with a curved hem.
- Zhí Jū (直裾, Straight Hem): Straight hem, simple and practical.
- Qún (裙, Skirt): Seamless skirt made of four fabric panels.
Wei, Jin, and Northern-Southern Dynasties
- Rú (襦, Short Jacket): Short upper garment with varied sleeve styles, paired with skirts or pants. Sleeves include straight, narrow, drooping, or flared sleeves.
- Qǔ Lǐng Shān (曲领衫, Curved-Collar Shirt): Rounded, curved collar.
- Bàn Xiù (半袖, Short Sleeve): Sleeves with edges and a waistband seam.
- Pò Qún (破裙, Patchwork Skirt): Multi-panel trapezoidal skirt pieces, often multicolored for women.
Sui and Tang Dynasties
- Shān/Ǎo (衫/袄, Shirt/Padded Jacket): Single or multi-layered, with round or straight collars.
- Bèi Zǐ (背子, Sleeveless Overgarment): Women’s sleeveless overgarment.
- Tǎn Lǐng (坦领, Open Collar): Open-collar design.
- Bàn Bì (半臂, Short Sleeve): Crossed collar, short sleeves.
- Hé Zǐ Qún (诃子裙, Lotus Skirt)
- Yuán Lǐng Páo (圆领袍, Round-Neck Robe)
- Lián Yī Qún (连衣裙, Connected Skirt): Multi-panel, solid or patterned.
Tang Dynasty clothing depicted in ancient paintings better showcases its diversity and splendor.
Song Dynasty
Women’s Clothing:
- Duì Jīn Shān (对襟衫, Open-Front Shirt): Divided into short and long shirts, open-front and straight collars, short shirts not longer than the knees, long shirts above the knees, with narrow or wide sleeves.
- Bèi Zǐ (褙子, Open-Front Jacket): Edged with lace, worn with skirts, reaching the feet.
- Dà Xiù Shān (大袖衫, Large-Sleeve Shirt): Short in front, long in back, with a triangular pocket (Sān Jiǎo Dōu 三角兜) to hold the cape.
- Mò Xiōng (抹胸, Chest Binder)
- Bèi Xīn (褙心, Sleeveless Vest): Open-front, sleeveless or short-sleeved, wearable alone or as outerwear.
Song Dynasty Lower Garments:
- Kūn (裈, Underpants): Crotched, single-layered, worn innermost.
- Kù (袴, Pants): Crotchless, for warmth, worn over underpants.
- Dāng (裆, Outer Pants): Crotched, side-slit, outermost pants layer.
- Bǎi Dié Qún (百迭裙, Hundred-Pleat Skirt): Single-piece pleated skirt, narrow at the top, wide at the bottom, dragging at the back with lining.
- Liǎng Piàn Qún (两片裙, Two-Piece Skirt): Seamless single-piece skirt, with two skirt panels sewn to the same waistband, overlapping but not sewn at the center.
- Sān Jiǎn Qún (三裥裙, Three-Pleat Skirt): Four trapezoidal skirt panels sewn together.
Men’s Clothing:
- Duì Jīn Shān (对襟衫, Open-Front Shirt)
- Jiāo Lǐng Cháng Shān (交领长衫, Crossed-Collar Long Shirt): Long, wide sleeves with side slits.
- Bèi Zǐ (褙子, Open-Front Jacket): Wide sleeves, reaching the feet.
- Yuán Lǐng Páo (圆领袍, Round-Neck Robe)
Ming Dynasty
Women’s clothing in the Ming dynasty:
- Zhí Lǐng (直领, Straight Collar): Divided into straight-collar open-front shirt (Zhí Lǐng Duì Jīn Shān 直领对襟衫) and straight-collar large-front shirt (Zhí Lǐng Dà Jīn Shān 直领大襟衫).
- Shù Lǐng/Lì Lǐng (竖领/立领, Upright/Stand Collar): Divided into upright-collar open-front shirt (Shù Lǐng Duì Jīn Shān 竖领对襟衫) and upright-collar large-front shirt (Shù Lǐng Dà Jīn Shān 竖领大襟衫).
- Yuán Lǐng (圆领, Round Collar): Divided into round-collar open-front shirt (Yuán Lǐng Duì Jīn Shān 圆领对襟衫), round-collar large-front shirt (Yuán Lǐng Dà Jīn Shān 圆领大襟衫), and round-collar open-front leather jacket (Yuán Lǐng Duì Jīn Pí Ǎo 圆领对襟皮袄).
The differences between straight, upright/stand, and round collars, and open-front and large-front styles, can be explored in detail in this article: Basic Styles of Ming Dynasty Hanfu Shirts.
- Fāng Lǐng (方领, Square Collar): Such as square-collar open-front leather jacket (Fāng Lǐng Duì Jīn Pí Ǎo 方领对襟皮袄).
- Pī Fēng (披风, Cape): Open-front straight collar, side slits, evolved from Song dynasty Bèi Zǐ.
- Dà Xiù Shān (大袖衫, Large-Sleeve Shirt)
- Bǐ Jiǎ (比甲, Sleeveless Vest)
- Zhǔ Yāo (主腰, Main Waist): Women’s undergarment.
Ming Dynasty Skirts:
- Mǎ Miàn Qún (马面裙, Horse-Face Skirt): A structure of two separate skirt bodies with a shared waistband, believed to originate from the Song dynasty two-piece skirt (Liǎng Piàn Qún 两片裙).
- Mamian Qun with narrow skirt door
- Mamian Qun with wide skirt door
- Mamian Qun with pleated door
Men’s clothing in the Ming dynasty:
- Tiē Lǐ (贴里, Straight-Collar Robe): Straight collar and large front (Dà Jīn 大襟), top and bottom cut separately, pleated hem, no hem on both sides.
- Yè Sǎn (曳撒, Slit Robe): Same shape as Tiē Lǐ, no pleats at the back, with hem on both sides.
- Zhí Duō (直裰, Straight Robe): Slit on both sides, no hem on both sides.
- Dào Páo (道袍, Taoist Robe): Crossed collar with right overlap (Jiāo Lǐng Yòu Rèn 交领右衽), hem tucked inside, knee-length.
- Zhí Shēn (直身, Straight Body): Same shape as Dào Páo, but with hem on the outside.
- Pī Fēng (披风, Cape)
- Chǎng Yī (氅衣, Ornate Overcoat)
- Yuán Lǐng Páo (圆领袍, Round-Neck Robe): Round collar, large front (Dà Jīn 大襟), with hem on both sides.
- Lán Shān (襕衫, Scholar’s Robe): Round collar, large front (Dà Jīn 大襟), side slits with hem on both sides, dark full-edged.
- Shān Ǎo (衫袄, Shirt/Padded Jacket): For inner wear.
- Dā Hù (褡护, Short Jacket): Short or sleeveless, with hem on both sides, wearable inside or out.
- Zhào Jiǎ (罩甲, Armor Jacket)
Responses