What’s Under the Skirts of Hanfu? Let’s Peek!

As summer 2025 approaches, hanfu shan-and-qun (tops and skirts) are taking the fashion world by storm, especially among enthusiasts of traditional Chinese fashion. At the heart of this trend lies the hanfu underskirt, a vital component that adds structure, elegance, and practicality to your outfit. Whether it’s the delicate chengun peeking out from under a skirt or the historically rich chenku pants, these underlayers define the soul of hanfu. Let’s explore the magic of hanfu underskirt styling and uncover five secrets to perfect your look this season.

The Role of Chengun in Hanfu Skirt Layers

Think of the chengun as the trusty base layer of a hanfu skirt, either mirroring the outer skirt’s style or rocking a different vibe. Today’s chengun come in popular styles like Mamian qun (horse-face skirt), Zhequn (pleated skirt), or Poqun (tattered skirt), each adding its own flair.

Chengun have three key roles in your hanfu ensemble.

First Role

They give the skirt that perfect poof, acting like a skirt hoop to create a fuller, more dramatic silhouette. Some skirts rely on hoop-style chengun to nail this look.

Another Role

They’re decorative eye-candy. Modern hanfu chengun often sport delicate lace edges or intricate patterns, letting a hint of airy elegance peek out from under the outer skirt, adding a playful, breezy touch.

Last Role

Most importantly, they’re your wardrobe-malfunction shield. For light-colored or thin single-layer skirts without built-in lining, a chengun is non-negotiable. Darker skirts or those with lining might not need one, giving you a bit more flexibility.

TIPS

• No need to splurge on a fancy chengun unless it’s a must. A regular light-colored, long fashion skirt from your closet can work just as well and save you some cash.

• In summer, white hanfu skirts double as chengun, blending seamlessly with your outfit while keeping things cool and chic.

Chenku: The Historical Pants Under Hanfu Skirts

Pants might feel like an odd pairing with skirts, but they’re a fascinating part of hanfu underlayers. Let’s break down the main types—“jingyi,” “kun,” and “ku”—each serving as a base layer with its own historical swagger.

Jingyi

Picture two pant legs strutting along.

Jingyi are essentially tube pants, with two leg sections connected at the waist, offering a sleek, minimalist look that’s all about ease of movement.

Kun

The go-to for ancient commoners.

During the Eastern Zhou’s “hufu riding and archery” trend, “kun” (crotched pants) hit the scene. Early on, kun weren’t mainstream—ancient paintings and carvings show them mostly on lower-class laborers. It wasn’t until the Sui and Tang dynasties that kun became a wardrobe staple for all, thanks to their practicality.

Ku

The ultimate bathroom hack.

In the Qin and Han dynasties, “ku” (open-crotch pants) emerged. Unlike kun, ku had a split crotch, a genius design for cumbersome ceremonial hanfu that made bathroom breaks a hassle. Ku were often worn by high-status folks, inspiring the term “wanku zidi” (spoiled noble sons) for flashy young elites.

Today’s chenku (underpants), including those mentioned here, are modernized for daily wear, blending historical vibes with practical comfort.

TIPS

• No need to stick to historical designs—modern fashion pants like wide-leg or lantern pants can double as chenku, adding a trendy twist to your hanfu look.

• In scorching weather, regular fashion bike shorts work great as a lightweight, breathable alternative for under your skirt.

To master wardrobe-malfunction prevention, here are some pro tips:

• Smooth your skirt before sitting.Plopping down without arranging your skirt can flash your thighs. Proper etiquette is key—gently smooth your skirt first for a polished, safe sit. It’s a small move that screams sophistication!

• Twirl with care.Hanfu girls adore spinning for that flowing skirt moment, but spinning too fast can lead to oopsies. Slow your twirl for stunning photos and worry-free flair.

• Watch skirt circumference.Some girls grab skirts without checking sizes, only to find they don’t close fully or have gaps. These skirts scream for a chengun to stay safe. When shopping, go for skirts a tad larger to avoid exposure risks.

• Avoid overly long skirts.Super-long skirts are a tripping hazard, so opt for slightly shorter ones (about 10 cm shorter) for everyday wear. They’re safer and more practical for strutting your stuff.

Bathroom Trick

For a quick bathroom fix, grab the bottom corners of your outer skirt, tie them into a knot, and you’re good to go. This works best with lightweight skirt fabrics for easy handling.

Some merchants sell chengun with drawstring bottoms, a clever hack worth trying for added convenience.

With the right chengun or chenku, your hanfu shan-and-qun will pop with personality. Whether you’re standing still or swaying in the breeze, these underlayers add a vibrant splash of spring and summer magic to your look. So, hanfu fans, how do you style your skirt underlayers? Share your tips and let’s keep the hanfu love flowing!

Styling Tips for Hanfu Underskirt Success

To make your underskirt shine, follow these practical tips to avoid mishaps and elevate your style:

• Smooth Before Sitting: Always arrange your skirt before sitting to prevent flashing. This small gesture exudes sophistication.
• Twirl with Care: Slow, deliberate spins ensure your skirt flows beautifully without exposing underlayers.
• Check Skirt Size: Opt for slightly larger skirts to avoid gaps, and pair with a chengun for added security.
• Avoid Overly Long Skirts: Choose skirts about 10 cm shorter than floor-length to prevent tripping, ideal for daily wear.
• Bathroom Hack: Tie the corners of your outer skirt into a knot for easy bathroom access. Look for chengun with drawstring bottoms for extra convenience.

Why Hanfu Underskirt Matters in 2025

The underskirt is more than a functional layer—it’s a statement of cultural pride and personal style. Whether you’re strolling through Luoyi Ancient City or sharing your look on social media, chengun and chenku add depth to your outfit. With the right underlayers, your hanfu shan-and-qun will radiate elegance and confidence.

How do you style your underskirt? Share your tips in the comments and join the global hanfu community in celebrating this timeless fashion. For more inspiration, check out Hanfu Today for the latest trends and styling guides.