What is the Zhongyi – Introduction to the Inner Garment in Hanfu

When it comes to traditional East Asian clothing, whether it’s Hanfu, Kimono, or Hanbok, there’s a piece of attire that plays an essential but often overlooked role: the inner garment, known as the Zhongyi in Hanfu. This inner garment in Hanfu, or “inner robe,” is typically worn between the undergarments and the outer layers, serving as both a functional and aesthetic piece in the overall outfit. It’s similar to what we might call an undershirt or inner blouse in Western fashion, except it plays a much more integral role in traditional outfits.

What is the Zhongyi?

The Zhongyi in Hanfu is a key part of the traditional Hanfu ensemble. It is the shirt-like garment worn beneath the outer layers, like a base layer or undergarment. This piece is not only worn for modesty but also for practicality, as it helps to maintain the shape of the Hanfu while adding to its beauty. Historically, the inner garment in Hanfu evolved from a simple inner layer to a more decorative part of the outfit. The Zhongyi typically comes in white, though modern interpretations may offer various colors depending on the occasion and the wearer’s personal taste.

Material and Fabric Choices

The Zhongyi in Hanfu is usually made from lightweight, breathable fabrics such as cotton, linen, chiffon, or satin. These materials are chosen for their comfort, softness, and ability to keep the wearer cool, especially in warmer climates or during long events. The fabric also plays a part in the overall aesthetic, as some fabrics give off a natural sheen, while others, like cotton and linen, offer a more casual, matte finish.

Color and Style

In traditional Hanfu, the inner garment in Hanfu is primarily white. This neutral color is perfect for pairing with the various outer garments worn for different occasions. For example, men wearing the round-collared robe (Yuanshan) often pair it with a white Zhongyi in Hanfu to maintain a clean, classic look. Women, on the other hand, might choose Zhongyi in different colors like emerald green, bright yellow, peach pink, or even lavender-gray, which they wear under their Ruqun (skirted ensemble) for a vibrant yet refined touch.

For formal occasions, like ceremonies or festivals, a Zhongyi in a striking color like bright red can be chosen, adding to the splendor of the overall look. This colorful inner garment in Hanfu helps set the tone of the outfit and can complement or contrast with the outer layers to create a cohesive aesthetic.

How to Wear the Zhongyi

The general order for dressing in Hanfu is to first wear the undergarments, followed by the Zhongyi, and finally the outer robe or coat. The Zhongyi is meant to be worn beneath the outer layers and should never be the outermost garment. However, due to its simple and comfortable design, it can also be worn as loungewear or even sleepwear in modern adaptations.

Common Types of Zhongyi

Narrow-sleeved Zhongyi (窄袖中衣):

• Features: This version features narrow sleeves and a cross-collar design. It’s mostly seen in white and is typically paired with daily wear or casual Hanfu styles.

Wide-sleeved Zhongyi (宽袖中衣):

• Features: As the name suggests, this version has wide sleeves and is also usually cross-collared. It is more commonly paired with formal attire or ceremonial Hanfu, lending an elegant flow to the overall look.

Zhongqun (中裙):

• Features: This is a type of skirt that was historically worn with the Zhongyi. It has a simple and convenient design, often without a waistband and the lower portion remains unstitched, offering ease of movement.

Zhongdan (中单):

• Features: A more simplified and flexible version of the Zhongyi, emerging during the Tang Dynasty. The Zhongdan has no seams at the waist and is unbroken at the bottom, making it a practical option for daily wear.

The Importance of Zhongyi

Though it may seem like a simple garment, the Zhongyi in Hanfu plays a crucial role in the structure and presentation of the outfit. As the essential inner garment in Hanfu, it helps provide shape and balance to the overall attire, ensuring that the outer garments drape beautifully. Many elaborate and ornate Hanfu outfits would look incomplete without the support of the Zhongyi. It’s an indispensable part of the traditional attire that ensures comfort, practicality, and aesthetic beauty.

Conclusion

The Zhongyi is much more than just an undershirt; it’s a vital piece of the traditional Chinese wardrobe, especially when wearing Hanfu. It reflects the elegance and simplicity of Chinese clothing, balancing both form and function. While it might not always get the attention it deserves, the Zhongyi ensures that the entire outfit remains well-put-together and harmonious. Whether you’re wearing it as part of formal wear, a festive ensemble, or simply as comfortable loungewear, the Zhongyi is an integral part of the traditional Chinese dress code.

For further information on Hanfu and its various components, visit Hanfu – Wikipedia.