The Most Classic Hanfu Styles in History
Traditional Hanfu Styles Through History
Hanfu, the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, has evolved over thousands of years, leading to hundreds of different styles. Throughout history, traditional Hanfu styles have undergone numerous transformations, each reflecting the cultural and social changes of their time. Today, we’ll dive into some of the most iconic and classic styles of Hanfu, focusing especially on those that have left a lasting impression in Chinese fashion history. These traditional Hanfu styles through history offer a glimpse into the beauty and significance of Chinese clothing traditions, showcasing how each style represents its era.
Women’s Outfits
The Ruqun (襦裙)
The Ruqun, also known as the Shanqun (衫裙), is one of the most representative forms of Hanfu for women. It consists of two main parts: the ru (襦), which is a short top, and the qun (裙), a long skirt. Together, they form the Ruqun, a style that embodies the “upper garment, lower skirt” concept.
One distinctive feature of the Ruqun is that the top is short, and the skirt is long. The Ruqun can be traced back to the Warring States period, but it only became common among regular women during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties.
Jiaoling Ruqun (交领襦裙) or Shanqun (衫裙)
A variation of the Ruqun is the Jiaoling Ruqun. Its defining feature is the cross-collared top, which was quite popular during the Song dynasty.
How to wear it:
- First, put on the top part of the outfit and align the collar.
- Tie the right side of the collar.
- Tie the left side of the collar.
- Next, wear the skirt. Wrap it around your waist and pull it up behind.
- Adjust the inner lining and fold it out to display.
- Tighten the skirt and adjust the length as needed.
Dui Jin Ruqun (对金襦裙)
The Dui Jin Ruqun is another variation where the skirt waistband aligns with the waist, and the collar is symmetrical in design.
Qixiong Ruqun (齐胸襦裙)
The Qixiong Ruqun is a traditional style that originated in the Sui and Tang dynasties. It features a high-waisted skirt and is tied just under the armpits.
Tanling Ruqun (坦领襦裙)
The Tanling Ruqun, also known as the “U-neck Ruqun,” originated in the Sui dynasty as court attire. It evolved into a style that was popular in the Tang dynasty and later spread to the general population. The defining feature is a heart-shaped neckline, which often leaves the chest area exposed.
Shenyi (深衣)
The Shenyi is a one-piece outfit where the top and skirt are sewn together. This style gives off a dignified and elegant look. Shenyi can be further categorized into Zhiju (直裾) and Quju (曲裾).
Zhiju (直裾) has been around since the Western Han dynasty and is known for being simple and practical but not usually formal enough for ceremonial occasions.
Quju (曲裾) became more popular in the Qin and Han dynasties.
This style is tight-fitting at the top with a flared skirt. The collar is usually low, revealing layers of undergarments beneath, while the sleeves could be wide or narrow.
Beizi (褙子)
The Beizi is a long-sleeved coat that falls just above the knee and doesn’t have seams at the underarms. It is worn on top of other layers, with a collar that runs from top to bottom.
Outer Garments (袄裙)
The Aoqun refers to an outer coat paired with a long skirt. The coat is usually lined for warmth and is often worn in colder weather, with the skirts being quite varied, with Ma Mian skirts being the most common. The Aoqun became popular during the Ming dynasty.
Round Collar Robe (圆领袍)
The Round Collar Robe is a long robe with a rounded neckline. The collar does not fully cover the neck, and a button or knot is typically used to close it. This style has become a symbol of official attire in modern times.
Banbi (半臂)
The Banbi, or “Half Sleeve,” is a short-sleeved shirt that extends to the elbows, with a length that reaches the waist. It can be worn alone or layered under other pieces of Hanfu.
Ru (襦) / Shan (衫) / Ao (袄)
- Ru: A short top that usually ends at the waist. Common in the Han dynasty, where the “upper Ru, lower skirt” style was popular.
- Shan: A form of tunic that’s close-fitting and typically worn under outer garments.
- Ao: A longer outer garment, often worn over the Ru or Shan.
Pifeng (披风)
The Pifeng, or cloak, is a large piece of outerwear that is usually worn over other clothes. It typically features a straight collar and can be either open or tied at the neck. The style was particularly popular during the Ming dynasty.
Daxiu (大袖衫)
During the Tang dynasty, women’s clothing became increasingly expansive. The Daxiu features extremely wide sleeves, often more than four feet in length. The material is light, making it suitable for warm weather or indoor wear.
Ma Mian Skirt (马面裙)
The Ma Mian Skirt is a type of pleated skirt with a smooth panel in the front, and pleats on the sides. It was commonly worn during the Ming dynasty and remains a symbol of traditional feminine attire.
Men’s Outfits
Yishang (衣裳)
The Yishang is the male equivalent of the female Ruqun. It consists of a top garment (Yi) and a lower garment (Shang), resembling a long robe. This is one of the most basic male Hanfu styles.
Shenyi (深衣)
The Shenyi for men is similar to the women’s version but is usually more formal. It was a common style during the Tang dynasty.
Zhiju (直裾) and Quju (曲裾)
The Zhiju and Quju are the male versions of the styles mentioned earlier. The Zhiju has a simple straight cut, while the Quju features a more fitted top with a flared skirt.
Lánshān (襕衫)
The Lánshān is a special version of the Shenyi that reaches just to the knee and is often worn by scholars.
Pao (袍)
The Pao is a long robe that is very common in traditional Chinese attire. It is typically worn by men in formal settings and is similar to the Round Collar Robe but often longer and more elaborate.
Daoxiang (道袍)
The Daoxiang, or Taoist robe, is a loose-fitting robe that is typically worn by Taoist priests. It features a straight collar and is often worn by practitioners of Taoism.
Yisan (曳撒)
Yisan is a traditional Mongolian garment that was incorporated into the Ming dynasty’s Hanfu styles. It has wide sleeves and a pleated skirt and was originally worn by nomadic herders.
Tieyi (铁衣)
Tieyi, meaning “Iron Clothing,” was a form of heavy coat popular in the Ming dynasty. It was a practical piece of clothing designed for stability and formality.
Hufa (护法)
The Hufa is a traditional Chinese short robe. It has a loose fit and is commonly worn for casual occasions.
Hanfu is a diverse and rich tradition, encompassing many different styles for both men and women. Each piece represents not only aesthetic beauty but also deep cultural significance. From the layered elegance of the Ruqun to the stately Shenyi, these garments showcase the evolution of traditional Hanfu styles through history. Every style tells a unique story, reflecting China’s long history and its cultural heritage. Hanfu continues to influence modern fashion, preserving ancient artistry while adapting to contemporary trends. Through its intricate designs and timeless elegance, Hanfu offers a glimpse into the past, keeping the spirit of ancient Chinese culture alive.
To further explore the rich history and wearing techniques of Hanfu, check out these resources for more detailed insights:
Discover the Rich Culture of Hanfu: The Story Behind Traditional Chinese Clothing
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